I’m no zealot . I just use what sounds best to me .
In 2008 I was going mad trying to to get the crossover right . I literally tried dozens of combinations of inductors,capacitors and resistors. I then moved on to boutique inductors and capacitors .
They all sounded meh.
In desperation I looked on the new to me internet.
Some bloke suggested doping and series wiring . I tried it and loved the sound . That bloke was Richard. I’ll use doping until somebody recommends a technique , I think sounds better.
And I should say my somewhat unneeded religious comment was more related to the "without filters" aspect that is then applied to the process.
I guess a rather more positive question is, given "I literally tried dozens of combinations of inductors,capacitors and resistors." how did you select the combination? Measurement, calculation and simulation would be the place to start.
Whenever an honest man discovers that he's mistaken, he will either cease to be mistaken or he will cease to be honest.
Well, he was asking for other suggestions. I guess a second question would be the budget and a schematic (or at least a description with values) of the rest of the loudspeaker so it was clear what sensitivity it needed and where the xover needed to apply.
Whenever an honest man discovers that he's mistaken, he will either cease to be mistaken or he will cease to be honest.
Your forgetting I’ve got nothing to do except take my son to school , housework and the evening meal . So I’m always trying other things , but as soon as you stick a cap or inductor on a driver I’m of the opinion it’s robbed of life and timing . I’d love passive components to work it would be simpler .
Budget around 150 per driver, other drivers are 6 ohms
Last edited by Daniel Quinn on Sat Apr 23, 2022 11:17 am, edited 2 times in total.
I realise it's not addressing the blown driver replacement question but if you don't like the sound of passive crossover components have you considered going to active, or even passive line-level, crossovers? It'll require more amplifiers of course. Just a thought.
I don't know if they're any good but a possible starting point if you know your current crossover parameters;