Thorns TD160B restore

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Mike H
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#91

Post by Mike H »

Yes could very well be, know I've seen it's like before somewhere, that could be it

Yes the plastic stub was just tight finger-tight, if you see what I mean.

I put the brass one in the same, whilst wearing a leather driving mitt. Image

PS not a good idea to use pliers! Unless heavily protected
 
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cressy
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#92

Post by cressy »

hi guys, your armboard is done mike so it'll be out tomorrow and im working on one for the ar colin, might be a little while for that one as the saw blade needs replacing. im starting to get drift on long cuts due to wear on it, so the one i tried today ended up about 1.5 mil out at one end. shouldnt be long though
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Mike H
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#93

Post by Mike H »

Superb, well done that man Image


Looks like will soon have a complete set of bits then. :D


Oh bum means will have to start doing something with it Image

Well ought do there's records I want to play
 
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colin.hepburn
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#94

Post by colin.hepburn »

Hi Creasy
Thanks for doing the LP12 Board no hurry time isn't a problem will be working on Thorns TD160 first anyways The AR will be a summer project
PM me if you require a Payment and or postage costs
Cheers
Colin
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Mike H
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#95

Post by Mike H »

Same here!



Just ordered a Michell sleeve nut tonite, pretty sure I'm going to need it. Apart from being much more 'sensible', I mean were there people at the Rega factory went along to a nuts and bolts wholesalers and said "we want a load of nuts this size"? Ending up with something that only a gas fitter's monkey wrench will fit? Image Not that you'd wanna try using one on it, "the word" is (apparently) the mounting shouldn't be too tight anyway
 
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colin.hepburn
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#96

Post by colin.hepburn »

Hi All
Well decided to leave the building of new plinth till later thinks will mount The Rega on to the TD160 so proceeded to attach the aluminium Arm Board fine fits perfect :D ok now to fit the arm replacing hex nut with new round nut problem cant tighten the round nut up past the back of the sud chassis :x so strip down this time mounted arm too board first now the round nut sits in the gap between the bottom of the arm board and the sub chassis
Mike if your board is too thick and you don't have this gap may be a problem :D

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Mike H
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#97

Post by Mike H »

Gotcha, might have to jiggle it with a bit of packing or something ~ cross that bridge when I come to it


BTW what's the height of the alu armboard as a matter of interest?
 
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colin.hepburn
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#98

Post by colin.hepburn »

Mike H wrote:

BTW what's the height of the alu armboard as a matter of interest?
Hi mike
height is 11mm top of sub to bottom of alu armboard and board thickness is 6mm
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Mike H
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#99

Post by Mike H »

Overall height 17mm then. :wink:
 
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Mike H
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#100

Post by Mike H »

Me Michell finger locknut came int' post this mornin' so the arm is about all there now. Much more betterer and elegant than the standard nut must be said, very nicely made as well. I couldn't do it!

NB the RB 250 might be nice and cheap initially but by the time you've got it all its extra bits (dare I say 'proper bits') its easily getting on for a couple of hundred quid minimum
 
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#101

Post by Mike H »

Mr. Ant's 'bit of wood' :wink: screwed to the Rega with the Michell finger locknut. Which comfortably misses the right rear screw hole; there's enough slack in the main fixing hole for 'jiggling'. Cheers cressy! Image


Image


Seem to have all the bits now. Damn that means I'll have to do something with it soon

.
 
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Mike H
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#102

Post by Mike H »

Not quite, just ordered a couple spacers off eBay.

The original TP16 tonearm tube is 44mm above the armboard at its centre.

The RB250 "as it is" with no VTA spacers will be 39mm to the centre of its tube.

However the TP16 headshell incudes a 3mm thick spacer to lower the cartridge. I.e. it's like the TP16 needs to be 3mm lower or 41mm without it.

The difference between the heights of the TP16 headshell and the Rega 'headshell' (relative to their arm centres) is exactly the same as the cartridge spacer! I.e. the Rega's is 3mm lower.

So the RB250 just needs a 2mm spacer to raise it to 41mm to the centre of its arm tube.

I was going to use card packing or something under the armboard if it came to the point, until I saw these spacers. Image
 
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#103

Post by colin.hepburn »

Hi Mike
Can you post the ebay link for the spacers itill be handy to have some
cheers
Colin
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#104

Post by little eddy »

I must admit that my RB250 was already fitted with one of the Michell VTA adjusters. Works very well but requires a larger hole/recess, plus from an aestetic POV when extended you can see the thread of the arm mount. Ease of fitting may depend on the thickness of the armboard. Mine was 12mm so I could drill out the larger diameter hole without going all the way through so i didn't end up increasing the hole size on the bottom for the locknut.
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Mike H
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#105

Post by Mike H »

colin.hepburn wrote:Hi Mike
Can you post the ebay link for the spacers itill be handy to have some
cheers
Colin
Sure nuff, it be here:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0298455470


Yes re Michell version et al, this is just a plain ring in stainless steel (sez here), so imagine just looks like an extension of the round silver bit at the bottom of the arm base


Looks like he's only got 4 left BTW.
 
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