Mounting arms to decks that are not designed for the arms is a whole new ballgame - I spent some time considering the whole energy loop of turntable motor, drive system, turntable bearing, record to platter interface, record rotational energy driving the stylus, stylus mechanically driving the cartridge generator, cartridge headshell mechanical interface, headshell arm interface, arm wand mount and bearing interface, counterweights and stub interface to arm wand, arm wand to mount, mount to arm base, arm base to turntable plinth and plinth back to motor interface and didn't really get anywhere productive as too many variables for me to cope with as a simple physicist - probably a full FEM analysis would yield some insights but the assumptions behind it would require a lot of analysis and iteration... of course each step in the loop is subject to outside influence too so plenty of chance to 'pollute' the signal
One thing that did come out of it and that is obvious is that the turntable motor provides the energy that drives the cartridge generator - obvious but I had overlooked it until I thought through the energy loop.but it helps to explain why the rotational drive system and platter momentum and bearing are so important and why idler, belt and direct drive have there different signatures that tend to come together in the best of each type...
The damping trough like the 744 is interesting but I found with mine and a couple of different cartridges - Elite MCP555, Shure V15 type III, Denon 103 that I didn't like the effect of the damping and having applied the recommend amount and paddle kept reducing it until I had removed it all...
I have a 12" 8 mm graphite rod to try in my arm once I add a headshell - thinking of adding a wenge headshell with a compression collar fit onto the graphite rod. Again doing the unscientific thing and changing lots of things at once and hoping to make a valid comparision

I'll settle for an improvement! It will be some time before I get to try this of course...
Using chunky wool makes a lot of sense given how effective that is in loading speaker cabs internal volumes to reduce the amplitude of acoustic waves - rather neat solution and it will be very interesting to hear how that works and how critical the volume of wool and the amount of twisting is - I bet it depends on the type of sheep wool as well...
Like the KD550 deck a lot - I have its bigger brother the KD990 that has a cast aluminium composite spider frame that mounts the DD motor isolated from the veneered chipboard plinth to make it look conventional - really nice automatic deck that is safe for the family to use...
My 103 is a lowly straight DL103 but I have learnt how to get the best out of it over the years - a matter of energy management at the cartridge/headshell end of the arm but it isn't the last word in detail, air and grace. I like the Dynavector too but for me the musical performance rules my judgement and the 103 does that just fine... If I had free choice a TSD-15 would be it but thats 10 to 20 times the price... I'm going to resurrect my V15 type III with a new JICO SAS stylus and wooden body too just to see where it lies against the MC cartridges... one day...
I came on this site yesterday and marvelled at the guy adding carbon fibre struts to MM stylus assemblies to triangulate the cantilever! Intriguing but I think I have too much hand shake to try this!!!
http://www.schiller-phono.de/en/room-cantilever
Google translate on the German pages works reasonably well and there is much more info there...