1 Gnats Whisker = 0.000" to 0.005" or less (i.e. a light gap).
2 Gnats Whiskers = 1 Gnats todger
3 Gnats todger = A Gnats.
4 Gnats =a Tad
3 Tads = a Smidgen
YMMV
OR
Gnats dick.
An extremely small unit to measure things by, subdivided into a `gnat's dick-end´, (about 8 to the gnat's dick), and a `gnat's cock-hair´, (about 12 to the gnat's dick-end) thus giving an imperial scale of 96 divisions. This sort of accuracy is essential if you're trying to engineer the worlds best amplifier.
The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.
Dave the bass wrote:LD1085 in the BB's though innit, thats what's on the PCB legend? 1.78V across ip/op pins Andrew, AC i/p to BB is 6.38V AC, so a smidge higher than I'd bargained for. I'll experiment with a small trim down as suggested by Phil and see what happens here mindful of the whole thing falling out of regulation.
DTB
Any updates or thoughts Andrew? I can sub-in LD1084V in 1085's place 'fairly easily' as the amp is only a breadboard project at the mo.
Andrew :
Couple of questions :
(i) what values of Rx , Ry should I be using for 20V-out on the big boards ?
(ii) If I'm using an SMPS at 24V DC coming in, could you just confirm where the best place for the +V would be to 'tap in' to the board. The ground connection/plane is fairly easy to see on the underside.
( Edit : maybe just use the + and - on any of the big cap positions ? )
(iii) If you have time could you add (i) and (ii) info to the 'Stacks' section, please ?
"Once you find out ... the Circumstances ; then you can go out"
(ii) If I'm using an SMPS at 24V DC coming in, could you just confirm where the best place for the +V would be to 'tap in' to the board. The ground connection/plane is fairly easy to see on the underside.
Hold the board longwise, so the horizontal axis is the longest axis, make sure its face up, screen print in front of you, now make sure the diodes are in the top left hand corner. OK?
Right, now flip it over along the horizontal axis, do you see a 'T' block of polygon where the plus of two of the big caps are connected? The block of signal feeds the top pin of the voltage reg, I would pick one of those holes, probably the nearest one.
( Edit : maybe just use the + and - on any of the big cap positions ? )
(iii) If you have time could you add (i) and (ii) info to the 'Stacks' section, please ?
Will do.
Andrew
Analogue, the lost world that lies between 0 and 1.
thomas wrote:......once I was reliably informed what I took to be links were in fact the sense resistors!...
Now, I need info on this bit. Is Rs a sense resistor and therefore in series with the filament - for measuring the current ?
Can I bridge this with wire if i don't need it ?
"Once you find out ... the Circumstances ; then you can go out"
1.78V across ip/op pins Andrew, AC i/p to BB is 6.38V AC, so a smidge higher than I'd bargained for. I'll experiment with a small trim down as suggested by Phil and see what happens here mindful of the whole thing falling out of regulation.
