401 bits

301, 401, plinths and assorted idler stuff
simon
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#46

Post by simon »

Sorted Ant! I don't have access to a plotter at the moment so I was going to bodge one from 4 pieces of A4. Then I found a spare I did some time ago for a rainy day :). PM me your address and I'll stick it in the post.

(Hey, Firefox spell checker doesn't recognise "bodge" :lol:)
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cressy
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#47

Post by cressy »

ive done abit of work on the 401 after recieving simons kindly donated template, the deck is now sat in its perspex top plate. next thing was to cut the chopping board out, which i buggered up spectacularly. so the plan is to cut some legs out of the remains of it :roll:

so next thing next, i stripped the bearing. there is some rust right at the top of the shaft where the felt washer is in the top of the housing, but that should clean up fine. however the thrust pad is buggered. it hasnt been touched by the looks of it other than being oiled at some point, but there was no oil evident. just the remnants on the moving bits.

so where to get a replacement thrust pad? the one that is on ebay looks good for the price and i think others have tried it. will advised the hot sauce reel oil so i'll try to track some of that down. it seems from abit of research that prices vary for the trust pads. id prefer a softer one really as its alot easier to replace a thrust pad than the bearing shaft. the shaft looks fine luckily, no real wear to the business end.

the motor also will want fettling at some point as its a little tight to turn by hand. it doesnt really spin for very long if you twist it by hand so i'll have a look at it if it causes an issue.

thoughts? you guys know alot more than me about these decks, if it was a lenco it'd have been up and running ages ago! :lol: (ten a penny, not like the garrard!)

cheers ant
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Greg
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#48

Post by Greg »

Hi Ant,

Your post simply indicates to me that you have a long suffering deck that has never been serviced. Are you sure it is rust at the top end of the shaft rather than brown congealed products of old oil? Regardless, it'll need cleaning up. On the thrust bearing pad, you have the option to carefully reform this with fine filing and then polishing with fine abrasive materials to leave you with a proper dome to sit the shaft on.

If the motor has some finger turning resistance, it probably is also simply suffering from a lack of maintenance, however you may need to do a bit more than strip and oil. If previous lubrication has congealed, you might need to use a thinner to disolve the congealment first and flush all the crap out before doing the new lubrication.

Regards,

Greg
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cressy
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#49

Post by cressy »

what type of grease is best to use when re-lubing the 401 motor? all ive got to hand is some coppaslip hi temp grease for the back of brake pads, suspension components ect, but i dont really want to use it as i suspect its quite abrasive for a grease having particles of copper in it.

any info? cheers ant
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Mike H
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#50

Post by Mike H »

cressy wrote:i suspect its quite abrasive for a grease having particles of copper in it.
Better not be!! :shock: Otherwise contravenes the Trade Descriptions Act, not a lubricant but a grinding paste :lol:

Not got any ordinary grease like for wheel bearings? Vaseline?


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pre65
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#51

Post by pre65 »

I thought the motor lubricant was oil. :? :lol:
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Greg
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#52

Post by Greg »

Hi Ant,

No grease goes in the 401 motor. Thin oil (sewing machine type ideal) to both the top and bottom rotor bushes. On the bottom bush, lift the rotor fully out and drip oil into the bearing casing. No need for too much but if you monitor, you'll see when full as it overflows and drips below. You will see that both bearing casings are encapsulated in a manner to allow movement. This is to ensure proper alignment when the rotor is replaced, so before you finally bolt up the motor case, wiggle the rotor about to get it centalised and give it a spin to be sure. Should run freely and be totally silent.

Regards,

Greg
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Mike H
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#53

Post by Mike H »

Actually yeah oil is more like it.

If not got no sewing machine oil maybe 3 in 1 type of stuff.

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Max N
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#54

Post by Max N »

Technics still sell the oil for the SP-10 and SL1200 motors - a lot of DJ type shops sell it online:

http://www.westenddj.co.uk/Product/TECH ... pares/OIL/
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cressy
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#55

Post by cressy »

cheers guys, im still thinking along lenco lines, need to get out of that habit.......
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cressy
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#56

Post by cressy »

got abit done this weekend, cleaned out and relubed the bearing, added the new thrust pad, removed the platter break in order to put in a new pad. didnt buy one, i used a filter tip for a roll up cigarette :lol: (yes i am a cheapskate). i'll get round to buying a proper one in due course............

with the platter break temporarily removed, it now takes about 2 minutes to stop from 33rpm and theres not a single noise! i also reoiled the idler bearing and cleaned up the idler.

finished off the top plinth. next thing is to make up a suitable spacer for the arm, which i rewired with the same silver stranded stuff i used in the helius arm.

so list of jobs, make spacers, drill top plinth to accept spacer and arm, terminate the arm wiring, do abit of sanding and finishing on the legs, and make up an adjustable platform with a spike to go under the bearing to ground it into the slate base.

im going to try grounding the bearing, simply because it worked well on the lenco. this part will be a circular plate with a spike sticking out of the top, that can be slipped under the bearing and the spike adjusted up so it touches the underside of the bearing. wether it does anything will be another matter :lol:
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cressy
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#57

Post by cressy »

this'll sound like a really stupid question but bear with me, looking at the motor pulley im assuming the top widest step is 78rpm, the middle step is 45 and the bottom that disappears into the motor is 33rpm.

the reason im asking is that im ether going mad or the motor pulley is set too low.

i havent touched it yet, but having finished it (or so i thought) i spun it up with the benz on the arm. and it was very fast. looking closer with the platter off i saw that with the dial set to 78 the idler doesnt actually touch the pulley. it is infact above it. and set to 33, it hits the middle step on the pulley.

if this is the case can i adjust the pulley upward without dropping the motor out?

(s'always the silly things that take the time and somewhat feeble brain power.........)
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Mike H
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#58

Post by Mike H »

Could it be, 45 rpm, 33 rpm, and 16 rpm. There were once ultra slow LP's IIRC. :?:

Edit
Or am I talking cobblers, how old is it?


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pre65
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#59

Post by pre65 »

Mike H wrote: Or am I talking cobblers ?

#
More like bolleaux ! :lol: :lol: :lol:

33 - 45 - 78 as on the knob legend.

I believe Lencos had a 16 (from memory).
Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans. John Lennon

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cressy
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#60

Post by cressy »

so am i correct then? top step 78 middle 45 bottom 33? reason i ask is that on closer inspection one of the three grub screws is missing its head, so if the pulley needs moving upwards then the thing is scuppered as i wont be able to release the pulley in order to adjust it................

bugger. (not happy....... :x :x :x :x
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