machtman wrote:Could you possibly be more specific and provide a manufacturer and part number for 440 V replacements for C5, C7 and C8 which are of high to very high quality?
Not really to be honest. I would try to use 450V versions of the same Broskie supplied.
Others might be able to suggest some makes of caps? Just watch the physical size isn't too large to fit on the board and that the pitch of the +ve and -ve pins is the same...
machtman wrote:Again, if you can provide me with part numbers and recommendations, that would be great. There may have been a choice of caps and I took what I thought were better because they were more expensive.
Ask ten people for recommendations on coupling capacitors and you'd probably get 30 suggestions! Some swear by paper in oil, some prefer polypropylene, others wouldn't use anything less than silver gossamer wrapped in badger excreta. It's really difficult to make firm recommendations as coupling caps can be a taste thing, and you need to try different caps to see which you prefer. Indeed caps in general are a source of great discussion, dissatisfaction and argument!
Hi Fi Collective is a fair place to start as they have a range of caps and you can at least compare pricing. Beware, audiophool pricing really kicks in with audiophile caps. You pays your money and takes your choice.
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog ... Path=61_68
So you could go for a nice Audio Note 1uF copper foil PIO - £60 each + vat
If you're really feeling flush how about their silver foil PIO - £648 each. Plus vat of course. Could you hear the difference? Only you would know that, but the money would probably be better spent elsewhere (chain is as strong as its weakest link etc.)
Claritycap make decent and relatively affordable PP caps. Their SA are a good standard and cost £3.26 each. Next step up is the ESA - £5.95 each, then they jump up to the MR at £22.58. I've only heard the SA, if it were me I'd probably go for the SA or ESA, but there are many, many valid choices.
machtman wrote:I note that all the vertical metal caps had white stripes and I put those in the -ve PCB hole and the longer leads at the other end in the +ve PCB hole. However, the Daytons, the bid red C4s and the quadratic C6's did not have any polarity markings and there was no polarity shown on the board for them.
The Daytons are polypropylene (I think) so not polarised, neither are the film and foil red rectangular caps. It's due to their construction I'm sure you'd find a good description pretty quickly if you googled. In fact I think Morgan Jones might cover this??? Anyway, lytics come in handy because they provide much greater capacitance for the same physical size as film and foil types. But nothing's perfect so there are always trade-offs.
machtman wrote:As to your recommendations on caps, this board has already cost so much for tools, input jacks, rotaries, TXs and now the case that I'm having built, that I'm not too concerned about the price of new caps, and simply want to be sure that the sound will not be compromised in any way due to trying to save money on caps. I also don't want to have to desolder more often than once more to try even better and more expensive caps.
Ah well, you're in the foothills of assembling a critical mass of bits so you can one day just look in your parts bin and build something on a whim
. There really is no short cut to building "the best anything", you have to build and experiment. Not everyone wants to do that (generally the sane people!) so sometimes you have to make a choice and go with it. The Claritycaps will be fine - you might spend a lot more money on something more booteek and not actually prefer them.