audio-talk

Mike H wrote: ↑Thu Nov 30, 2023 11:12 pm Avoid 'Clouds' as much a I can!

He says, posting on a server hosted out there somewhere.

Can you remember if my version sounded "inferior" on the day ? Be as honest as you like. Well, to be honest (not sure you can be slightly honest), but I can't remember. In general when I hear your amps they have been let down (IMHO) by either the speakers and or music played, so I don't h...

which seems to be indicative of a good operating position. Not sure about that, its fun to thrash them, but to get those sorts of op points working involve getting all the other parts to do their job as well, and that's far from simple. Like gm70's, they can also sound very good at much lower dissi...

Stick some damping on the lid then would be my thought. May be the field from the tx moving the lid.

Is it mechanical hum or through the headphones?

If it is 200ma, then if the B+ is 950v then the valve is dissipating 190W. Should be enough for most purposes. If you want to get closer to 300W, try adding some nicad batteries between the interstage secondary and ground to push the grid positive for display purposes, assuming the power supply is u...

You can get into A2 with the transformer coupling you have. It's not perfect, but A2 often isn't. What current do you get with 950v on the anode and the grid at 0v via the transformer from the set?

3000V

It was a bit of a trick question to try and gently expose unknown areas. The output transformer primary can swing up close to twice the b+ voltage, so 1k5v can get close to 3kv.

To increase current through the valve (not the filament) increase the voltage on the grid and run in A2.

Is your output tx safe at 3kv? If you are doing this to get them to glow then p=i.v, leave the voltage where it is and increase the current

I don't feel comfortable here giving advice. Start with RDH and understand what you are doing. It's not safe to busk this stuff.

U19 are great. But make sure to read ALL the spec. They are intended for choke input of course at those voltages and the time they are from. Mv's are in many ways a better choice.

There probably is no gap, so the inductance is there in the absence of current. You will I suspect want current, so the inductance will collapse.

I read the first page and then lost the will.

HDMI does have the possibility of using the extra wires to remote power the receiver via the connection. To add to that, looking at a LVDS receiver, you can either have a common ground, or need to use cap or transformer isolation. Once you do that, you start having to use a encoding that ensures DC ...