Now then.
This’ll be a long job, as the craftsmanship is going to have to be right, in order to pull off successfully, this style.
The obvious valve to use for steampunk will have to have a top cap and therefore by default and going by what I’ve got left in my valve boxes, and the output transformers I have, it has to be the 807, of which I have two NOS from 1965.
As a taster of the thought process, here’s a mash-up of a Hammond 1627SE, output transformer end-bell, and some half-inch copper plumbing brassware:
I’m aiming for a cross between Fritz Lang’s “Metropolis” and Terry Gilliam’s “Brazil”
Steampunk!
- Cressy Snr
- Amstrad Tower of Power
- Posts: 10582
- Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 12:25 am
- Location: South Yorks.
#1 Steampunk!
Sgt. Baker started talkin’ with a Bullhorn in his hand.
- Mike H
- Amstrad Tower of Power
- Posts: 20189
- Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2008 5:38 pm
- Location: The Fens
- Contact:
#3 Re: Steampunk!
Likewise!
Here's some possible inspiration...
- -
It's a lamp, is all
Here's some possible inspiration...
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It's a lamp, is all
"No matter how fast light travels it finds that the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it."
#6 Re: Steampunk!
The faucet "volume control" really made me laugh.
But what's out there is truly amazing.
But what's out there is truly amazing.
- Mike H
- Amstrad Tower of Power
- Posts: 20189
- Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2008 5:38 pm
- Location: The Fens
- Contact:
#7 Re: Steampunk!
The gin bottle and pressure gauge are nice touches I thought
"No matter how fast light travels it finds that the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it."
#8 Re: Steampunk!
Steve, if you're going to explore a styling statement don't forget you have 3D printing available to you nowadays.
I bought a couple of these 'saucepans' from an ebay seller in China to cover the toroids on my 13E1 build;
but they have a pretty ugly flange for bolting them to the chassis, which I'm not keen on the look of. After taking a few measurements I took to a CAD package and designed some collars to go over the flanges to hide them. I then had a friend at work 3D print them. The priniting took several hours but apparently less than a fivers worth of 'ink'. Here's the result. His printer bed wasn't big enough to do a single collar for both toroids, hence it being in two halves;
The fit is spot on and they even include blind holes so I can tap threads to bolt them to the chassis. The hole on the centreline is for the on/off toggle switch. I just need to do a little bit of cleaning up on some edges and cyano them together;
Here's what will be eventually seen on the top of the amp;
I bought a couple of these 'saucepans' from an ebay seller in China to cover the toroids on my 13E1 build;
but they have a pretty ugly flange for bolting them to the chassis, which I'm not keen on the look of. After taking a few measurements I took to a CAD package and designed some collars to go over the flanges to hide them. I then had a friend at work 3D print them. The priniting took several hours but apparently less than a fivers worth of 'ink'. Here's the result. His printer bed wasn't big enough to do a single collar for both toroids, hence it being in two halves;
The fit is spot on and they even include blind holes so I can tap threads to bolt them to the chassis. The hole on the centreline is for the on/off toggle switch. I just need to do a little bit of cleaning up on some edges and cyano them together;
Here's what will be eventually seen on the top of the amp;
Sorry, I couldn't resist!