Moth*****kin rumble messin' up ma bass (how low can ya go!)
..."Inna groove trackin' error rippin' offya face"
That's the same one that I used for mine but since fitting it, I have been informed by John of Palmer audio, during a chat, that even the softer phosphor bronze bearing can wear the hardened steel shaft...how does he know? I think he mentioned something about seeing bronze deposited on the spindle base and wear on the spindle coating. I'm not so sure as it's hard to see how a softer metal can wear a harder one to that extend. My own view is that the type of oil used is of paramount importance. Whereas the older thrust pad was in a bath of (essentially) sewing machine oil, something like a long polymer chain synthetic (Mobile 1 for example) is often recommended for Garrard and Michell decks. I'd imagine the extra viscosity would affect motor loading and speed, but as it's adjustable, I can't see any real issues with the Garrard. The main advantage when using a ball bearing rather than a thrust pad is that fully synthetic oil has a far greater shear strength than light mineral oils and can withstand the much larger pressure generated between ball bearing surface and spindle. I wouldn't recommend using any other type of oil for that reason. I've refurbished a few Garrards now, including my one and after a few years using the new ball bearing I can see no notable wear on the spindle.Ali Tait wrote:I note he has the 401 version on ebay -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XTP401-SPINDL ... 19e2243345
Has to be worth a go at that price.
Perhaps a new felt ring may help Greg?Greg wrote:Hi Paul,
Thanks for the info particularly regarding your own experience on oil and the use of the phosphor bronze ball bearing. That is helpful. Certainly I use Mobil 1 for lubrication and I don't rely on the standard oil feed tap to top up lubrication. In my view, the only way to do it is to remove the unit from the deck, remove the base plate and then, after cleaning, immerse everything in a bath of Mobile 1 immediately before reassembly, mopping up spillage as you go. The down side is getting a clean oil free mating surface for the base plate to ensure a good oil tight seal. I don't think the old paper gasket on its own is sufficient and the use of some gasket sealant here is helpful. Even when you do achieve that oil tight seal, you can be sure that oil will leach out from the top of the bearing and gradually spread across the top surface of the chassis....well it does in my case.
Ali Tait wrote: Perhaps a new felt ring may help Greg?
No Ali, I don't think it will and actually we are not looking for a solution on this. It's 1950/60/70's engineering and at that time, oil loss or seepage was considered satisfactory. In any case, my felt ring is reasonably new. The felt ring is porous, the bearing is not oil tight at the top and so seepage is to be expected, and such seepage is a healthy indication that the bearing is well lubricated, provided you service as I have suggested regularly, depending on your frequency of TT use.Ali Tait wrote:Perhaps a new felt ring may help Greg?
I dismantle, and relube my bearing once a year. This is probably overkill considering the use the TT gets, but I suppose on average it gets used about 6-8 hours every week. I have to compete with the Mrs and her TV which shares the room. I also have periods when I really get into my CD collection and the TT gets a couple of weeks rest. I'm sure as a rule of thumb, an annual service which only takes half an hour to do is more than enough, but useful if you are fitting the phosphor bronze ball bearing thrust pad in order to monitor wear of the ball surface.Ali Tait wrote:How often do you service the bearing?