Desktop/PC speakers...
- pre65
- Amstrad Tower of Power
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#19
If I wanted to know I'd ring my local wood merchant.nickds1 wrote:Nor have I, hence the questionpre65 wrote:I've never used BBP that thin.
NOT a DIY superstore.
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- jack
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#20
Yeh. I had got that far Doh!pre65 wrote:If I wanted to know I'd ring my local wood merchant.nickds1 wrote:Nor have I, hence the questionpre65 wrote:I've never used BBP that thin.
NOT a DIY superstore.
Best so far is about 36+VAT from the same place I buy bulk cedar from - most sheds wouldn't know what bfp was, and even if they did they'd not have a clue about gradings...
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- jack
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#22
£32.86 + VAT for 12mm 8x4 B/BB grade - apparently that's the trade rate from the supplier - HUGE place - must be 50+ acres - never knew that there were so many ways to chop up & treat wood...
Anyway, made my cutting list - for 12mm bfp, is it OK to use #10 biscuit joints or would some other technique be better?
Anyway, made my cutting list - for 12mm bfp, is it OK to use #10 biscuit joints or would some other technique be better?
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- jack
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#24
Ok. Done a cutting list and starting on these now I have all the bits...
Question for those that understand veneering...
The uFonken has optional mitred corners at the front - see http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/uFonke ... 130312.pdf - I say "optional" as they are cosmetic, but I like the effect.
How do I veneer those? Two plans come to mind...
Plan "b." would appear to potentially offer the best results (continuous grain) and the highest likelihood of my cocking it up, especially round the corners (won't it crack?).
For a veneering-neophyte, what would people recommend? Apart from paint, that is
Ta !
Question for those that understand veneering...
The uFonken has optional mitred corners at the front - see http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/uFonke ... 130312.pdf - I say "optional" as they are cosmetic, but I like the effect.
How do I veneer those? Two plans come to mind...
- Veneer the back, then the sides, then the mitres and lastly the front, trimming the edges each time...
- ...or use a paper-backed veneer, doing the back first, then starting on the front and doing front and sides in one piece with aliphatic glue and an iron to work round the corners
Plan "b." would appear to potentially offer the best results (continuous grain) and the highest likelihood of my cocking it up, especially round the corners (won't it crack?).
For a veneering-neophyte, what would people recommend? Apart from paint, that is
Ta !
Vivitur ingenio, caetera mortis erunt
#25
If you are using flexi veneer ie paper backed (such as Decoflex) then the iron-on glue method is most appropriate, BUT to get the veneer to bend around a 90 deg edge you'll have to round over the edge otherwise as you suspect the veneer will split. It will bend around the 45 deg chamfers no problem. Glue I would recommend Aliphatic resin wood glue not the white PVA. Glue needs to be applied to both the ply and paper backing of the sheet veneer.
If you are using standard veneer then consider how you are going to have continuous grain around the speakers. ie to book match the speakers. Normally one would cover the top, sides and base in that order with the grain continuing from the top down both sides and then the base. To do this you will have to have a couple of consecutive cut leaves of veneer so you can match grain from the top, down one side to then the other. You will not be able to use the iron-on method with this type of veneer as the heat from the iron will shrink and split the veneer. You are able to use this method with the paper backed flexi veneer as the resin impregnated paper backing acts as an arrestor and the grain of the veneer has already been stress cracked before it is bonded to the paper.
If you are using standard veneer then consider how you are going to have continuous grain around the speakers. ie to book match the speakers. Normally one would cover the top, sides and base in that order with the grain continuing from the top down both sides and then the base. To do this you will have to have a couple of consecutive cut leaves of veneer so you can match grain from the top, down one side to then the other. You will not be able to use the iron-on method with this type of veneer as the heat from the iron will shrink and split the veneer. You are able to use this method with the paper backed flexi veneer as the resin impregnated paper backing acts as an arrestor and the grain of the veneer has already been stress cracked before it is bonded to the paper.
- jack
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#26
Thanks for that - I looked at Decoflex but it seems to only come in big rolls for quite a lot of money... 8'x4' sheets for 70 quid or so - I only need a small amount
I could round off those corners on the router table - might be a lot easier... but if I can't find a supplier of smaller quantities of paper-backed veneer, I'll have to leave the speakers as a plain box to increase the odds of not screwing it up...
I could round off those corners on the router table - might be a lot easier... but if I can't find a supplier of smaller quantities of paper-backed veneer, I'll have to leave the speakers as a plain box to increase the odds of not screwing it up...
Vivitur ingenio, caetera mortis erunt
- jack
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#27
Got all this bits.
It's a nice day. Time to cut wood...
Just love the new saw (retail therapy) - makes cutting multiple precision panels a doddle... really really fast - doing repeat sizes just takes seconds...
When the wood is cut, you suddenly realise how small these speakers really are...
Routing template next for the cut-outs...
It's a nice day. Time to cut wood...
Just love the new saw (retail therapy) - makes cutting multiple precision panels a doddle... really really fast - doing repeat sizes just takes seconds...
When the wood is cut, you suddenly realise how small these speakers really are...
Routing template next for the cut-outs...
Last edited by jack on Thu Jun 18, 2015 10:25 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Vivitur ingenio, caetera mortis erunt
- Dave the bass
- Amstrad Tower of Power
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#29
The saw is a sharp thing that cuts wood.simon wrote:What is the saw Nick?
You new to this sorta thing fella?
"The fat bourgeois and his doppelganger"
- jack
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#30
It's a Festool TS 55 REBQ-Plus-FS with the parallel side bars and extensions plus other bits like the special clamps and extra rails etc.simon wrote:What is the saw Nick?
I was actually shaking when I handed over my card
However, since using it in anger the last few days, I've come to realise that it's a truely wonderful bit of kit - so much more useful than a table saw. You can cut an 8 foot sheet and the line will have no breakout and be accurate to small fractions of a millimeter... It's the favourite of the trade and I can now see why. It even comes with three years insurance against theft !
Loads of videos on Youtube about it...
My "tool philosophy" has always been to buy fewer tools but always the best I can, because in the end they'll do a better job and last far longer...
I'm now a bit of a Festool convert... and somewhat poorer...
Vivitur ingenio, caetera mortis erunt