Desktop/PC speakers...

Dedicated to those large boxes at one end of the room
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pre65
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#16

Post by pre65 »

I've never used BBP that thin. :wink:
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jack
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#17

Post by jack »

pre65 wrote:I've never used BBP that thin. :wink:
Nor have I, hence the question :)
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simon
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#18

Post by simon »

Me neither. Last sheet I bought was 18mm, just before Christmas, £55. That probably doesn't help though lol.
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pre65
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#19

Post by pre65 »

nickds1 wrote:
pre65 wrote:I've never used BBP that thin. :wink:
Nor have I, hence the question :)
If I wanted to know I'd ring my local wood merchant. :)

NOT a DIY superstore.
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#20

Post by jack »

pre65 wrote:
nickds1 wrote:
pre65 wrote:I've never used BBP that thin. :wink:
Nor have I, hence the question :)
If I wanted to know I'd ring my local wood merchant. :)

NOT a DIY superstore.
Yeh. I had got that far :) Doh!

Best so far is about 36+VAT from the same place I buy bulk cedar from - most sheds wouldn't know what bfp was, and even if they did they'd not have a clue about gradings...
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#21

Post by SimonC »

From memory I think I paid about £40 for a sheet from the local timber merchant. I've found 12 and 18mm easy to get hold of around here (Bradford) but 15 is special order.

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#22

Post by jack »

£32.86 + VAT for 12mm 8x4 B/BB grade - apparently that's the trade rate from the supplier - HUGE place - must be 50+ acres - never knew that there were so many ways to chop up & treat wood...

Anyway, made my cutting list - for 12mm bfp, is it OK to use #10 biscuit joints or would some other technique be better?
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#23

Post by jack »

FF85wks arrived today.

Most compact, they are.
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#24

Post by jack »

Ok. Done a cutting list and starting on these now I have all the bits...

Question for those that understand veneering...

The uFonken has optional mitred corners at the front - see http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/uFonke ... 130312.pdf - I say "optional" as they are cosmetic, but I like the effect.

How do I veneer those? Two plans come to mind...
  1. Veneer the back, then the sides, then the mitres and lastly the front, trimming the edges each time...
  2. ...or use a paper-backed veneer, doing the back first, then starting on the front and doing front and sides in one piece with aliphatic glue and an iron to work round the corners
Plan "a." is simple but I would probably find a way to make a mess of it. Lots of edges to cut exactly straight.
Plan "b." would appear to potentially offer the best results (continuous grain) and the highest likelihood of my cocking it up, especially round the corners (won't it crack?).

For a veneering-neophyte, what would people recommend? Apart from paint, that is :)

Ta !
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#25

Post by Toppsy »

If you are using flexi veneer ie paper backed (such as Decoflex) then the iron-on glue method is most appropriate, BUT to get the veneer to bend around a 90 deg edge you'll have to round over the edge otherwise as you suspect the veneer will split. It will bend around the 45 deg chamfers no problem. Glue I would recommend Aliphatic resin wood glue not the white PVA. Glue needs to be applied to both the ply and paper backing of the sheet veneer.

If you are using standard veneer then consider how you are going to have continuous grain around the speakers. ie to book match the speakers. Normally one would cover the top, sides and base in that order with the grain continuing from the top down both sides and then the base. To do this you will have to have a couple of consecutive cut leaves of veneer so you can match grain from the top, down one side to then the other. You will not be able to use the iron-on method with this type of veneer as the heat from the iron will shrink and split the veneer. You are able to use this method with the paper backed flexi veneer as the resin impregnated paper backing acts as an arrestor and the grain of the veneer has already been stress cracked before it is bonded to the paper.
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#26

Post by jack »

Thanks for that - I looked at Decoflex but it seems to only come in big rolls for quite a lot of money... 8'x4' sheets for 70 quid or so - I only need a small amount :(

I could round off those corners on the router table - might be a lot easier... but if I can't find a supplier of smaller quantities of paper-backed veneer, I'll have to leave the speakers as a plain box to increase the odds of not screwing it up...
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#27

Post by jack »

Got all this bits.

It's a nice day. Time to cut wood...

Just love the new saw (retail therapy) - makes cutting multiple precision panels a doddle... really really fast - doing repeat sizes just takes seconds...

When the wood is cut, you suddenly realise how small these speakers really are...

Routing template next for the cut-outs...
Panellising 4'x8' BFP
Panellising 4'x8' BFP
uFonken kit of panels...
uFonken kit of panels...
Last edited by jack on Thu Jun 18, 2015 10:25 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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#28

Post by simon »

What is the saw Nick?
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#29

Post by Dave the bass »

simon wrote:What is the saw Nick?
The saw is a sharp thing that cuts wood.

You new to this sorta thing fella? :)
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#30

Post by jack »

simon wrote:What is the saw Nick?
It's a Festool TS 55 REBQ-Plus-FS with the parallel side bars and extensions plus other bits like the special clamps and extra rails etc.

I was actually shaking when I handed over my card :(

However, since using it in anger the last few days, I've come to realise that it's a truely wonderful bit of kit - so much more useful than a table saw. You can cut an 8 foot sheet and the line will have no breakout and be accurate to small fractions of a millimeter... It's the favourite of the trade and I can now see why. It even comes with three years insurance against theft !

Loads of videos on Youtube about it...

My "tool philosophy" has always been to buy fewer tools but always the best I can, because in the end they'll do a better job and last far longer...

I'm now a bit of a Festool convert... :shock: and somewhat poorer...
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