Open Baffle Suggestions
-
- Thermionic Monk Status
- Posts: 5647
- Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 11:22 am
- Location: People's Republic of South Yorkshire
#91
This is as good as place as anywhere to post this photo I s'pose.
It's only taken 7 years to get to this stage . Huge thanks to James for all his help and patience. They're based on the recipe for Nick's OBs with Supravox 285GMF bass helper and Alpair 12P. The plan is to use the Supravox with my Fostex 208s and T90As once I've built some MLTLs for the 12Ps. In the meantime I'm running the 12Ps in in the baffles - they're in the additional boards attached to the front as the 208s need a bigger hole and I can easily switch between them this way. These baffles are just rough jobs to get me going - they're in the man cave so aesthetics aren't important at this stage.
So how do they sound? Apparently the 12Ps need 800 hours to fully run in, and initially they have to be treated gently so I've only had them on low so far. And there's no crossover yet so both drivers are working between ~200Hz and 5kHz. And the Supravox is a fair bit more sensitive than the Alpairs.
To be honest I wasn't expecting too much but they're really rather good . Remarkably coherent and balanced, the bass sounds really clean, unsurprisingly. The Alpairs are sweet too. I really wanted to turn it up and let rip but managed to contain myself. Patience Simon. If they sound this good now I can't wait for them to run in, and then try the Fostexes.
It's only taken 7 years to get to this stage . Huge thanks to James for all his help and patience. They're based on the recipe for Nick's OBs with Supravox 285GMF bass helper and Alpair 12P. The plan is to use the Supravox with my Fostex 208s and T90As once I've built some MLTLs for the 12Ps. In the meantime I'm running the 12Ps in in the baffles - they're in the additional boards attached to the front as the 208s need a bigger hole and I can easily switch between them this way. These baffles are just rough jobs to get me going - they're in the man cave so aesthetics aren't important at this stage.
So how do they sound? Apparently the 12Ps need 800 hours to fully run in, and initially they have to be treated gently so I've only had them on low so far. And there's no crossover yet so both drivers are working between ~200Hz and 5kHz. And the Supravox is a fair bit more sensitive than the Alpairs.
To be honest I wasn't expecting too much but they're really rather good . Remarkably coherent and balanced, the bass sounds really clean, unsurprisingly. The Alpairs are sweet too. I really wanted to turn it up and let rip but managed to contain myself. Patience Simon. If they sound this good now I can't wait for them to run in, and then try the Fostexes.
- IslandPink
- Amstrad Tower of Power
- Posts: 10041
- Joined: Tue May 29, 2007 7:01 pm
- Location: Denbigh, N.Wales
#92
Nice work !
Glad you're enjoying it. I'm messing about with a lot of half-finished stuff that is really musical too
Glad you're enjoying it. I'm messing about with a lot of half-finished stuff that is really musical too
"Once you find out ... the Circumstances ; then you can go out"
#93
That's good Simon.
So lucky to have a man cave.
I think it's interesting how easy it can be to get a good sound from baffles, and with a little effort they can be brilliant.
So lucky to have a man cave.
I think it's interesting how easy it can be to get a good sound from baffles, and with a little effort they can be brilliant.
Much to learn there is.
- Paul Barker
- Social Sevices have been notified
- Posts: 8988
- Joined: Mon May 21, 2007 9:42 pm
#94
Yes I agree on all points Al. It is just a shame it is hard to get enough out of baffles in most domestic shared environments. With the possible exception of quasar's. but at what cost?
I suppose bass is the problem. Less base smaller baffles would suit the environment. Hide a sub away in a corner.
compromise.
Or sit here moaning.
I suppose bass is the problem. Less base smaller baffles would suit the environment. Hide a sub away in a corner.
compromise.
Or sit here moaning.
"Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I am not yet completely sure about the universe." – Albert Einstein
- pre65
- Amstrad Tower of Power
- Posts: 21400
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:13 pm
- Location: North Essex/Suffolk border.
#95
Well done Simon, glad you have got there at last.
I look forward to reading about how you make progress with them.
I look forward to reading about how you make progress with them.
The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.
Edmund Burke
G-Popz THE easy listening connoisseur. (Philip)
Edmund Burke
G-Popz THE easy listening connoisseur. (Philip)
-
- Thermionic Monk Status
- Posts: 5647
- Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 11:22 am
- Location: People's Republic of South Yorkshire
#96
Absolutely right Paul. Baffles need real estate and aren't generally domestically acceptable. There was no way I could even think about them in the old house, now I have somewhere to play. The boss can hear how good they are so there's a chance hey might make it downstairs, but the physical size is a real problem. All to play for!
- Cressy Snr
- Amstrad Tower of Power
- Posts: 10582
- Joined: Wed May 30, 2007 12:25 am
- Location: South Yorks.
#97
Nice work Simon, you kept those quiet.
Is that a Loftin-White with posh output transformers I spy in the background or a 300B with d3a drivers?
Is that a Loftin-White with posh output transformers I spy in the background or a 300B with d3a drivers?
Sgt. Baker started talkin’ with a Bullhorn in his hand.
#99
It is possible to make reasonably small dipole systems.
http://linkwitzlab.com/LX521/Description.htm
Linkwitz uses lots of equilisation to get flat responses on tiny baffles, and a pair of long-throw 10" subwoofer drivers a side (presumably with quite a lot of amp power).
Alternatively, ripole LF systems might be worth a look.
Chris
http://linkwitzlab.com/LX521/Description.htm
Linkwitz uses lots of equilisation to get flat responses on tiny baffles, and a pair of long-throw 10" subwoofer drivers a side (presumably with quite a lot of amp power).
Alternatively, ripole LF systems might be worth a look.
Chris
- Scottmoose
- Needs to get out more
- Posts: 1802
- Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 11:03 am
- Contact:
#100
They are, but as above, you need power. Lots of it.
#101
I'm not so sure: how much power will something like that take before the clanking noises start?Scottmoose wrote:They are, but as above, you need power. Lots of it.
My guess, for one of these or similar
http://www.europe-audio.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=4296
would be <50w/ch.
That doesn't seem like a lot of power to me, but then again I like my big solid state amps.
If anyone's interested in ripole LF systems, there's a rather good diyAudio thread about them: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofe ... -subs.html
Chris
- IslandPink
- Amstrad Tower of Power
- Posts: 10041
- Joined: Tue May 29, 2007 7:01 pm
- Location: Denbigh, N.Wales
#102
I think me and Ray are more interested in getting results without digital equalisation and lots of SS power . I'm pretty certain it's going to sound nicer and more convincing that way .
"Once you find out ... the Circumstances ; then you can go out"
#103
Yep, I've got the t shirt for lots of SS watts and not many dB speakers - seemed good at the time but ultimately disappointing.IslandPink wrote:I think me and Ray are more interested in getting results without digital equalisation and lots of SS power . I'm pretty certain it's going to sound nicer and more convincing that way .
I'm looking for a speaker project that a gnat could power.
Ray
- Scottmoose
- Needs to get out more
- Posts: 1802
- Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 11:03 am
- Contact:
#104
It's not about how much power you can ram up the driver's jacksie before it waves the white flag, it's the fact that the conversion efficiency of ripoles is at best mediocre -often worse than standard baffles, U frames or similar. So if you want to go loud / have significant LF dynamic range, you need power. Or several of them. Don't get me wrong, they're a perfectly valid concept, done well, as Linkwitz & some others have, but power and often Eq are usually necessary, so if a high efficiency system is the goal, they don't leap to mind as a solution. Presumably exceptions exist somewhere along the line, but I haven't run across any yet.chris661 wrote:I'm not so sure: how much power will something like that take before the clanking noises start?
My guess, for one of these or similar
http://www.europe-audio.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=4296
would be <50w/ch.
That doesn't seem like a lot of power to me, but then again I like my big solid state amps.
#105
Interesting. I'd've thought the increased path lengths would yield increased efficiency, and a fairly small footprint.
Reading to be done.
Chris
PS - while not necessarily the most convincing in terms of tiny details, my mains are ~98dB@1w, and have >200w/ch on tap. They can do dynamics like... Well, you can probably guess.
I'd be interested to hear them on the end of a fleawatt valve amp, though, to hear what I'm missing.
Reading to be done.
Chris
PS - while not necessarily the most convincing in terms of tiny details, my mains are ~98dB@1w, and have >200w/ch on tap. They can do dynamics like... Well, you can probably guess.
I'd be interested to hear them on the end of a fleawatt valve amp, though, to hear what I'm missing.