Looking for guide to setting suspension on Thorens TD-160
#1 Looking for guide to setting suspension on Thorens TD-160
Hi all
Anyone got any links to a dummies guide to setting up the suspension on a Thorens TD-160
Thanks
Paul
Anyone got any links to a dummies guide to setting up the suspension on a Thorens TD-160
Thanks
Paul
#2 Re: Looking for guide to setting suspension on Thorens TD-160
Original deleted. Post was to block a spammer's post from being 'on top'.
Last edited by Ray P on Sat Feb 11, 2017 5:56 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Sorry, I couldn't resist!
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#3 Re: Looking for guide to setting suspension on Thorens TD-160
You'll end up having to do that 24 times (at present count).
Why not just send Nick a PM?
Chris
#4 Re: Looking for guide to setting suspension on Thorens TD-160
I'm pretty sure Nick will notice of his own accord, in the meantime grant me a minor victory by getting them off the top of all the threads.
Sorry, I couldn't resist!
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#5 Re: Looking for guide to setting suspension on Thorens TD-160
I understand why you're doing it, but once Nick waves his magic wand you'll be doing rolled eyes on the posts that precede the spam posts.
Last edited by The Stratmangler on Sat Feb 11, 2017 5:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Chris
#6 Re: Looking for guide to setting suspension on Thorens TD-160
at which point I can edit them...
Sorry, I couldn't resist!
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#7 Re: Looking for guide to setting suspension on Thorens TD-160
You can only delete a post if someone hasn't posted after you
Chris
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#8 Re: Looking for guide to setting suspension on Thorens TD-160
Hello Paul,
I see your original post goes back to 2016 - did you eventually get the info and were you successful with the suspension bounce on the Thorens. There are several links all over the place on other Forums especially Vinyl Engine.
Reason for my interest is I just bought a Thorens 160 super & have just played with it’s spring suspension. It is now my favourite turntable playback in some 40 odd years.
Regards, Ed
I see your original post goes back to 2016 - did you eventually get the info and were you successful with the suspension bounce on the Thorens. There are several links all over the place on other Forums especially Vinyl Engine.
Reason for my interest is I just bought a Thorens 160 super & have just played with it’s spring suspension. It is now my favourite turntable playback in some 40 odd years.
Regards, Ed
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#9 Re: Looking for guide to setting suspension on Thorens TD-160
Ta for Christmas card, Ed !
"Once you find out ... the Circumstances ; then you can go out"
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#10 Re: Looking for guide to setting suspension on Thorens TD-160
Sure ‘nuff Mark and bless thee for thine.
I must explain something - the other day I noticed a section for newbies on this forum and suddenly realised I never did mine.
So, started to do some background audio history ( must have been harking on for quite sometime & got sidetracked). When returning to the memoirs I got timed out or something. Logged back in and it evaporated into the digital underworld. Got worn out with the original script and gave up. So sorry and apologies to all, I’ll try again one day.
Mr.Natural
I must explain something - the other day I noticed a section for newbies on this forum and suddenly realised I never did mine.
So, started to do some background audio history ( must have been harking on for quite sometime & got sidetracked). When returning to the memoirs I got timed out or something. Logged back in and it evaporated into the digital underworld. Got worn out with the original script and gave up. So sorry and apologies to all, I’ll try again one day.
Mr.Natural
#11 Re: Looking for guide to setting suspension on Thorens TD-160
Such was my hunger for fame and with a high degree of self importance long ago knocked out of me, I submitted a guide in HiFi Answers forty years ago on setting a TD160 up and it was printed too...
If anyone's interested, it needs treating like an LP12 except that most 160's have cam-washers at the base of the spring which aid centring and the mk2's have a hole in the top plate and sub chassis to the left of the main spindle viewed via the keyways in the outer platter. Adjusting these cam washers is a bit of an art-form and even at the factory I gather it could take a few minutes on each one. Belt centring in its guide-fork is done Linn style with outer platter upside down so you can see it running - Thorens drive belts don't last more than a few hundred hours and need regular replacement. Levelling is to kind-of get the bottom of the inner hub roughly level with the top plate when loaded up I seem to remember. The main bearing may need charging with EP80 viscous gear oil from a reputable brand (I'd avoid thinner oils), especially the early 160's and 125mk2's as tolerances were sloppy. The 160mk2 had a thinner bearing shaft initially running in deeper sleeving so not much oil I needed on these.
Lastly, tonearm cable dressing is VITAL and the cable should be clamped to the rear of the plinth where it exits (some lazy wag suggested taking the bottom off and letting the cable hang, but the idea as I understand it is to isolate the cable outside of the plinth with the few inches inside which act with the suspension. A pretty sharp curve Is needed on these but it can be done with most flexible exit wires. Mission 774 arms used to be great with a TD160 until they thickened up the exit cables too much and ruined compatibility, but this can be changed.
P.S. I think the TD150/124 multi-ribbed mat 'sounds' better than the mk2 mat. Cork mats can be got with large centre holes I believe. Best of all was the EMT-style mat used on the 160 Super and this really did lift sonic performance.
P.P.S Adding damping sheets made the colleague who cut them out some money, but I'm truly damned if I could hear any real difference. Not sure about metal arm boards as I think wood/MDF ones a la 160 Super were perhaps better than metal or original plastic - perhaps...
If anyone's interested, it needs treating like an LP12 except that most 160's have cam-washers at the base of the spring which aid centring and the mk2's have a hole in the top plate and sub chassis to the left of the main spindle viewed via the keyways in the outer platter. Adjusting these cam washers is a bit of an art-form and even at the factory I gather it could take a few minutes on each one. Belt centring in its guide-fork is done Linn style with outer platter upside down so you can see it running - Thorens drive belts don't last more than a few hundred hours and need regular replacement. Levelling is to kind-of get the bottom of the inner hub roughly level with the top plate when loaded up I seem to remember. The main bearing may need charging with EP80 viscous gear oil from a reputable brand (I'd avoid thinner oils), especially the early 160's and 125mk2's as tolerances were sloppy. The 160mk2 had a thinner bearing shaft initially running in deeper sleeving so not much oil I needed on these.
Lastly, tonearm cable dressing is VITAL and the cable should be clamped to the rear of the plinth where it exits (some lazy wag suggested taking the bottom off and letting the cable hang, but the idea as I understand it is to isolate the cable outside of the plinth with the few inches inside which act with the suspension. A pretty sharp curve Is needed on these but it can be done with most flexible exit wires. Mission 774 arms used to be great with a TD160 until they thickened up the exit cables too much and ruined compatibility, but this can be changed.
P.S. I think the TD150/124 multi-ribbed mat 'sounds' better than the mk2 mat. Cork mats can be got with large centre holes I believe. Best of all was the EMT-style mat used on the 160 Super and this really did lift sonic performance.
P.P.S Adding damping sheets made the colleague who cut them out some money, but I'm truly damned if I could hear any real difference. Not sure about metal arm boards as I think wood/MDF ones a la 160 Super were perhaps better than metal or original plastic - perhaps...