Desktop Mini-Amp

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BobWeaver
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#1 Desktop Mini-Amp

Post by BobWeaver »

I'll say right up front that the whole point of this little project (which came about during a technical discussion while enjoying too many beers) was to make the minimum parts-count push-pull amplifier. Fidelity was a secondary concern at the time (if it was a concern at all).

I originally posted about this in this thread:
http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB2/view ... sc&start=0
after I'd run a frequency response test, and discovered that this may actually qualify as hi-fi. The discussion started to diverge somewhat from frequency response, and so I decided to start an new thread. And, here we are.

I had a few 6M11 'Compactron' valves on hand from a previous project in which I'd lost interest. These have a pentode section and two triode sections. Plus, they're tiny, and adorably cute. My plan was to use the pentode as a preamp stage, and the two triodes as a push-pull output. The triodes have a maximum plate dissipation of 2.25 watts each, so this is not going to burst anyone's eardrums. On the other hand, I thought it might make a fun little desktop amp for the computer.

The project is still in the prototype/breadboard stage as the photo shows.
Image

This is the original schematic before adding refinements:
Image

A push-pull amp normally requires some sort of phase inverter, but since the pentode was already doing preamp duty, there weren't many options left. I could have used an interstage transformer, but that's a rather dated technique requiring an expensive transformer. Another option is to ground the grid of the second triode and use cathode coupling: essentially a long-tailed pair, or differential amp. That was the method I chose, sort of. However, this would have required a high resistance in the cathode (to ensure reasonably constant current) which would not be practical for biasing. The present arrangement could be called a 'short tailed pair' which doesn't guarantee constant cathode current. So, instead of grounding the second triode's grid, I connected it to a voltage divider which gets a signal from the first triode's anode. This compensates for the rather variable cathode current and applies sufficient signal to the grid to ensure the second triode shares the load.

After the original circuit was reasonably debugged, I added a tone control:
Image
This was my own concoction after searching the web and not finding exactly what I wanted. It's not perfect by any means, but it works well enough for what I want. The frequency response is shown here:
Image
The amount of boost/cut is not huge, but it is a bit of a compromise. More boost/cut means more insertion loss. As it is, it gives enough range to keep me happy.

The circuit as it is right now:
Image
Aside from the tone control, I've added some components to balance the bias of the output stage. Initial tests show that it works well, but I'm not really sure that something as low power as this really needs anything this complex, and I may remove it.

Oh yes, the 'A' and 'C' in the schematic refer to the taper for the potentiometers. 'A' is audio taper. 'C' is reverse audio taper. So, the tone control requires a non-standard pot. If a C-taper is not available, a standard audio taper can be used, but wired backwards so that bass increases as the control is turned clockwise. Or, a 20k standard linear taper pot can be used (and deleting the 33k fixed resistor), but the adjustment is not quite linear.

Oh... and the schematic shows supply voltage to be between 180 and 220 volts, but I'm actually running at 250V as we speak.

Feel free to post your comments, questions, ridicule...
BobWeaver
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#2

Post by BobWeaver »

Finally got it into a case.
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Completed stereo unit
Completed stereo unit
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andrew Ivimey
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#3

Post by andrew Ivimey »

Neat! what does it sound like? I really like grounding the second grid of the output pair. Your solution is novel to me :D
Philosophers have only interpreted the world - the point, however, is to change it. No it isn't ... maybe we should leave it alone for a while.
BobWeaver
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#4

Post by BobWeaver »

I now have it sitting on my computer desk driving a pair of Realistic Minimus 7 speakers (one of Radio Shack's better products), playing Internet radio from my computer. Audio quality is impressive. I'm not good at coming up with audio quality adjectives, so we'll have to settle for 'impressive'. Listening to Internet Radio and CD player material, it's good enough to show up the flaws in those sources, which is to say that the amplifier is far from being the weak link in the chain. I guess that I'm most impressed with the bass response, considering the tiny OPTs (and past experience with lousy computer speakers).

The method of driving the output stage works out to be equivalent to a grounded grid with constant current cathode supply (at least up to the point of clipping). It took me a while to figure out the proper way to adjust the 10k grid drive pot. Initially, I just set it partly by ear, and partly by matching both plate voltage swings on the scope. Later, I realized that the proper way to set it is to monitor the signal at the cathodes, and then adjust the grid drive pot for a null at the cathodes. At this point, we have essentially a constant cathode current. So it's equivalent to a CCS/grounded grid system.

The only real drawback to this system is that when it reaches the point of clipping, it doesn't do it very gracefully, as one might hope for a valve amplifier.
ps2key
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#5 Re: Desktop Mini-Amp

Post by ps2key »

I see 3 knobs on the final pic. Have you used a dual pot or have you run two volume or tone into one single? Thanks much for this project.
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andrew Ivimey
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#6 Re: Desktop Mini-Amp

Post by andrew Ivimey »

Love the compactron - my favourite is 6FJ7.
Philosophers have only interpreted the world - the point, however, is to change it. No it isn't ... maybe we should leave it alone for a while.
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